I drive a FR 1 TD4 97cv (2000), with 3-doors.

i got the chance to get a FR 1 TD4 112cv with 5 doors for parts. It has a broken motor.

I wonder if most of the parts are compatible and which are not.

Does one knows about and may tell me?

greets

Cordt

having a problem with my Freelander 2 2.2 td4. Cut out on the mrs whist she was out. Got it towed home. Unclipped the fuel line at the fuel filter ( one that comes from the tank) and there was no fuel in the line. This was the same with the other lines at the fuel filter. 
first thought was must be the fuel pump. 
 

had the fuel pump change and car ran for 2 days then conked out again with similar symptoms but notice this time when I unclipped the pipe from the fuel tank to the filter then to cranked the engine no fuel was flowing to the filter again. 
 

not sure where else to look as regardless of the issues I’m not getting fuel from the tank but fitted an new pump from the tank. 
 

any help please 

thanks Chris 

I have followed the normal and the extended calibration procedure to no avail.

The mech was a cheap one and the glass doesn't sit perfectly level - when one side's runner is at the end stop, the other side is maybe 20mm away so I wonder if this is part of the problem.

2010/10 freelander 2

Opened car as normal drove off auto locked.

got to work drivers door would not unlock from internal handle, external handle, remote, or dash board switch.

window switch panel operates normally.

all others doors operate as normal..

i assumed dead locked..

any ideas how I can open the door?

Anyone done it?

Our Freelander 1 had a crank no start problem a few days ago. Nothing obviously broken and no DTC error codes. The wheel arch pump sounded quite noisy, like it was cavitating. Pulled the tray with the pump, filter and separator and checked the hoses and connections. The push fits in the separator were really loose, so pulled it apart and replaced the o-rings. Put everything back together and it's a lot better. Every few seconds there was still a random cavitation noise from the pump. I checked all the connections again, but still no obvious problem.  I pulled the tank cover and fitted a pipe directly to the fuel pump from the connector on the sender marked with the outlet arrow. When the ignition was turned to position 2 the pump started and sprayed diesel from the now removed outlet pipe. Tracing this back it seems that there is something fishy going on with the flow routing.

The out from the pump is fed via a T back to the connector of the tank sender marked outlet. The pump is instead fed from the clamped rubber tube that haynes says should be for fuel burning heater, and this is where my air in the fuel is coming from.

Anyone know of any issues with the senders drawing in air? And why the pipework doesn't seem to follow the flow direction arrows?

Been looking for a replacement but all the search engines bring back replacements that don't look anything like the other remaining one.

The nearest appears to be a range rover version , picture below, but will this fit, can anyone provide the part number as I can't get the passenger side cover off to read it.

That is another question how do you get the cover off to replace it?

Thanks 

Is there an easy way to check the fault without an expensive diagnostic at a garage?

Is it easy to replace / repair this function?

Thanks

Simon

Are they really that bad? 

I was left stranded yesterday with steering column locked message. The battery voltage appeared good and a jump didn't help things. 

I cleared all codes, still no difference. 

I tried the other key just in case. No luck.

Ended up taking the cover off and hitting the Volvo box with a spanner, and it worked. 

Now not sure if it is ever going to happen again. My thoughts were to maybe get an emulator to keep in the glove box, that way I could potentially use it to get home. 

I've seen people warning about things like what if it fails when you are driving at speed, but I'm not sure that is how it works. When the Volvo module wasn't working yesterday and came up with that message, the steering wasn't locked at all it just refused to start. 

If there is a risk of the steering lock engaging, is it possible to remove the steering column lock altogether?

Any idea what is causing this annoying beep and could it be a warning of some sort?

Thganks

Simon

Anything in particular to look for?

This morning I took the wiper arms off and the plastic scuttle panel off. Straight away it was obvious that the connecting arm to the motor had just detached from the ball underneath the drivers side wiper part. So, I took the motor and linkage assembly out and for now I have just done a temporary fix. I drilled and tapped a 5mm hole to fix the linkage arm on with a 5mm hex head bolt and washer. 

I'm going to get a new linkage arm and motor, but genuine or pattern? Does anyone have any experience of the pattern ones?

Thanks.

Whilst searching t'web I have come across a few posts indicating that the IRD support bearing for the shaft is a possible contributor to a leak like this, and that a worn inner CV can be a factor.

Is there a simple test I can perform to ascertain if the support bearing needs replacing?

Does anyone have a recommendation for the best tool kit to purchase for this task?

It wont get much use, but I dont want to damage anything in the process.

Appreciate the help

Thanks

There is one niggle. I find its difficult to see the the instrument panel clearly during the day (ok at night). Is this a fault as there is no illumination?

Mafio

I should have mentioned that it is a 2012 model.

When driving slowly and turning the rear nearside wheel feels like it is scrabbling and it makes a clunking noise. It happens in forward and reverse.

No errors showing on Autel.

Pulling the Haldex fuse makes a significant difference, and the noise is barely audible without the fuse in but you can still feel that the scrabbling is there (just reduced).

It just started all of a sudden yesterday - it drives fine once you speed up - you just notice the scrabbling on tighter bends etc.

I believe as ours is a 2010 (59 plate) it will be the gen 4 Haldex unit.

So questions...

Would a DIY Haldex service be worth trying first? How about the Valve replacement as that seems to be common on these?

With the fact that it is still there albeit reduced when the fuse is pulled does that mean there is something more than just the Haldex?

Any tips on where to go next with it?
 

I think it would be a good wee excercise to see how many Freelander owners we have and where they all located, might even lead to a few meets once folk get to know who's where and how many of us there are.

I'll add my name below and hopefully more will follow, maybe once we get a good list we can get a outing or event arranged.

Just copy and paste the list below onto the reply box and add your names

1 - Andy D..............Inverkip, Scotland

2011 Freelander 2 used by my wife has lost all electrical systems. The clutch gave out, this was expected and the car was already booked in for the replacement but it failed a week prior to the arranged date.  The car sat in the drive for the week and then the truck arrived to lift it to the garage. The fob would not work, we got in with the key and then found that the whole electrical system had failed. Dead as a Dodo!  No dashboard, no engine, steering lock on so can’t even be manoeuvred when pushing it.  The battery is perfectly OK and no obvious faults have been found. The Autologic computer will not connect to the system as it can find nothing to connect to.

Has anybody come across this? I have heard of another case but the person involved cannot be contacted to find out what happened so we are at a loss to know how to move forward.
 

Cheers.  Robin

any advice would be welcome