I have a TD5 D2 on 205000 miles, which has a potentially knackered transfer box (pops into neutral and whines a bit after "giving it some beans"), and the gearbox snatches a little in most gears. The transfer box may or may not have a center diff lock, but certainly the lever is only high and low, and is attached to the tunnel and operates the high/low off a cable (I suspect they all are like this, but this is my first D2 so not 100% sure...).

I also have a very rusty 300Tdi on 160000 miles with what appears to be a good gearbox and transfer box.

I was thinking of putting the transfer box from the 300Tdi into the D2, but would the whole gearbox and transfer box out of the 300Tdi fit onto the TD5? What pitfalls are there in putting just the transfer box in, and would it be better/easier to fit the gearbox too?

Cheers

That just about covers it !

As per my other posts I am hunting down info to see about the reality of being able to offer PROPERLY rebuilt Front and Rear Differential units for LR3s at sensible money.

I have been digging about like a terrier on speed

I thought it would be good to start a new thread with ALL the info I find and develop so if peeps need a bit of info to do themselves a DIY fix its available free.

So, this will be a thread that I will add to and tweak, if peeps can help with extar input feedback correctyions of errors and or ommissions them it will defo help me but for others in the future here and on the www...

So, so far I have found out :

FRONT Diffs
TAG500140ST TDV6 DISCOVERY
TAG500160ST V6 & V8

REAR Diffs
TVK500440ST TDV6 DISCOVERY
TVK500420ST V6 & V8

Front Diffs Part Numbers so far

1 Bolt FC114206
2 Bolt TYP500090
3 Bolt KYG000230
4 Nut FY110056
5: OIL SEAL - DIFF OUTPUT SHAFT - L/R DISC 3 (FRONT)(REAR) LR019019
6 Bolt KYG000240
7 Bolt TYP500100
8: HOSE - BREATHER TAP500130
9: BUSH - DIFF HOUSING - L/R DISC 3+R/R SPORT (FRONT DIFF) KQB500151
10: BUSH - DIFF HOUSING - L/R DISC 3+4 (FRONT+REAR DIFFS) KQB000133
11: BUSH - DIFF HOUSING - L/R DISC 3+4 (FRONT DIFF) KQB000152
12 Mounting Unit TAU500070
13: DIFF BRG KIT - L/R DISC 3+R/R SPORT (FRONT) LR006011#
13: DIFF BRG KIT - L/R DISC 3+R/R SPORT (FRONT) TAG500500#
13: AXLE ASSY FRONT (RECO) - 3.73 RATIO LR009478
13: AXLE ASSEMBLY - FRONT AUTO - D3 V8 3.73 RATIO TAG500160
13: AXLE ASSY FRONT (RECO) - 3.54 RATIO LR006011
14: O RING - DIFF HOUSING - L/R DISC 3+4 (FRONT DIFF) TYX500040
15: Oil Seal Diff Output Shaft TZB500050
16 SUPPORT TUBE TAU500080
17 No idea !! LR019450
18: PLUG - DRAIN - DIFF - L/R DISC 3+4+R/R SPORT (FRONT) TYB500080
19: PLUG - FILLER TYB500060

Struggling a bit more with the Rear so far.

Also RR Sport are as follows and are a part number match

Seems there could be a possible issue with the Drive Flanges as these are Not Sold Seperately (Thanks LR really good of you) thats not a show stopper I could get one drawn up in Solidworks and CNC machined ground and polished ..

So, anyone go the same sort of info / links etc for rear diffs.

Can someone comment on what you can / do / can't get open diffs vs locking diffs for the above models please ?

More the merrier !

Nige

haven’t posted for a while but need some help, the cables to the electro viscous fan on my d4 got dragged into the fan and mutilated and now I can’t figure out how to wire back up, 

The socket on the loom has disappeared and I am left with 5 cables 

2x black with brown trace 

1x brown with black trace 

1x orange 

1x black 

ideally I need to find out where I can get a new socket from and which cables go in which holes 

the fan plug that goes into the socket is intact with 

white, green, grey, blue, and black cables 

can anyone help? 
 

thanks Tom 

it’s a 2014 disco 4 commercial 

How good / bad is the 6 speed manual (TDV6 ZF S6-53 Manual gearbox) in those vehicles ?

Do they stand up against abuse, etc.

Please let me have it.

Thank You.

P.S. This is not for use in a DIII/DIV - just the manual 6-speed gearbox

It’s been quite a while since I posted here, but hoping to ‘tap in’ to the collective wisdom to work through a problem with my sons’s first car. 

Long post (sorry) but trying to give as much info as possible…

1996 Discovery 300Tdi that has been off the road for 8+ years (was my Father In Law’s). No mechanical problems at all at the point it was parked up, but lots of corrosion that we have now repaired. 

Noticed while running it around a bit before the MOT that it was running a bit warm, radiator was in pretty terrible condition so replaced it and the thermostat with new parts. Seemed to be better on temp, but couldn’t get any heat inside so assumed there was an airlock that we hadn’t got out. Had to take for MOT slot (only a few miles) so drove it there, but on the way it shot out a core plug and lost all coolant. 

Replaced core plug (and passed MOT!!) and spent lots of time trying to bleed - got lots of air out and seemed to get heat inside/out of the heater matrix pipes so considered in ‘job done’. 

My son drove to work and it overheated a lot on the way. When I got to it there was lots of pressure in the header tank (even when cold) so assumed head gasket failure. Local specialist confirmed and skimmed head and replaced head gasket. 

On journey home still had temp fluctuation, assumed it was air so spent a few days on and off bleeding it and testing. Eventually took it back and water pump had failed (impeller completely fallen off). 

Water pump replaced and now getting good circulation through the heater matrix etc. but still suffering from temperature fluctuations under load - gauge will go to the top of the white area when driven harder, and come back down again when idling (or even just driving slower). 

Tried bleeding it lots of times following LR manual process and others (including unbolting the header tank and raising it up), but not getting anywhere. 

Not ruling out head gasket failure again (given it may have gotten really hot again with failed water pump), but doesn’t seem to be excessively pressurising this time. 

Any ideas?

2003 D2 td5, re chassis'd and totally re bushed last year (as was driving fine).

So somewhere in the past 6 months a steering vibration 50mph+ has developed, it's not consistent sometime at 65 it's quiet other time very much not.

Recently noticed steering feels very vague, going into a turn if feel like your understeering then the same turn it feels like you've over steered, does not instil confidence, then towing and latterly in some heavy water drenched roads, she was aquaplaning all over the place, very unpredictable, in that instance it reminds me of using a slightly slack rudder on a boat where you really feel the effort right in and shift the rudder under your hands.

New steering lower uj installed, can't feel any slack in the steering drive line, changing the PAS box has made no difference.

While testing the refurbed replacement pas box, with wheels on the ground if I cycle the steering wheel back and forth quickly it's likenyou get this lag feeling, it's like the system can't keep up with the inputs... which I can replicate on my 90, got me thinking maybe I've got a pump problem?

Main axle ball joints haven't been done for a very long thing by the look of it and on the list.

Anyone any thoughts?

Need some additional ideas from you guys. On Friday driving around for about 20 miles and returned home only to see steam coming out of the bonnet grrr!

Lifted the bonnet and coolant gushing out of the coolant overflow tank and cap. Before returning home to discover this I had stopped the truck at a petrol station only a couple of miles away with no issues.

Anyway, a bit of history on the truck, which had a new block fitted at 45k before we bought it and I have always assumed this would be a top hat block although I have no proof of this. The water pump (genuine) was replaced about 18 months ago so hopefully it's not that.

Back to the coolant gushing out, I immediately shut the engine down and noted the temp gauge sat in the middle as always and engine running sweetly with no mis-firing. So let it cool for a while refilled and put the cap on. Started the engine and within 30 seconds the viscous fan cuts in, check the gauge and normal so shut it down again. Let to cool once more topped up the water with about 1.5 litres and left the cap off, started again with the same result so shut down again.

Next try, plugged in the Nanocom and started the truck still running perfect and watched the temperature on the Nano rise to 102 degrees although the dash gauge still read normal!. Immediately shut down to engine and I will put it in my workshop tonight and see what I can find.

Apart from the obvious head gasket, are there other thing to check before I do a leakdown test. Could it be a jammed thermostat or blocked radiator. Finally no water in the oil and no funny gases smell from the header tank. Anyone else had this problem or have any ideas.

Thanks in advance

Baden

Tomorrow I'm going to crack on with replacing the steering knuckle ball joints on my D2, I've clued myself up and ready to get on with it, I do however have a question mark which I've not been able to find an answer too, and the workshop manual is a bit vague.

The lower ball joint position on the carrier has an adjustable collet to take up any variations in size of the ball joints.

Just looking for a sense check as to when you need to adjust the collet.

Logic I think dictates you torque up the top ball joint nut first (110Nm), then wind in the lower collet to 5Nm (as per manual), then the lower nut to 135Nm.

This is then effectively giving a 5Nm preload between the balls joints...

Does that sound right?

Deleted centre silencer box

Smoke test for air leaks all sorted.

I have changed MAF and Stepper motor.

Cats and O2 sensors is only thing I can think of left to do any other suggestions?

Thanks and Merry Christmas 

Disco TD5 - 2003 

Looking for some advice. 

Based in Scotland, bought a D2 around 4 years ago. 

1999 v Reg d2

quick question in the photo what colour wire is earth for the electric window switch to illuminate the button light 💡 

thanks 😊 

I am not inquiring about a part as much as some advice. I have a 2000 disco 2 with a 4.0 in it. It ran hot and I determined it was the head gasket. Upon taking it apart I found it to be the second cylinder back on the passenger side was clean, so I cleaned up all the parts and put new head gaskets on along with all the stuff to put it back together. I have also changed the water pump, thermostat and checked to make sure the radiator is not clogged. The heater core is currently bypassed. I took it out after I put it back together and had the same issue. I have noticed both before the repairs and after that the lower radiator hose is always cold. Today I went to the hardware store and got what I needed to eliminate the thermostat and run the truck. I now have a hose going from the water pump to the lower radiator inlet and one from the upper radiator inlet to the top inlet on the engine block. I made sure to bleed to correctly with the overflow tank taken out and held above the engine to make it the highest point. I took it for a drive and it overheated again, and still no heat in the lower radiator hose. I did run a pressure check on the system and it hole 15lbs of pressure with no issue. Can you please help advise me on what may be wrong? I am at a loss for ideas. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

Thank you

David

So, I'm considering a 1.2 to 1.4 transfer box change... I'm sure people have done this in the past and I'm looking for feedback, +ve or -ve experience on doing such a switch.  The reason I'm unsure is 90% of the time I don't really see an issue, the car drives reasonably around town as is, so I want to get opinions on if this is really a worthwhile exercise?  It is that 10% of the time when it is frustrating, even having to drop to low range for some particularly steep starts.

Ta.

Really getting fed-up now, I am getting a strange fault, when setting off if the Landy hasn't been moved in a couple of hours the brake pedal is solid, I mean rock solid no movement so no brakes. If I release the pedal and press down again I get bit more pressure and then solid again 😤

After a few more presses I get fully working brakes.

Changed brake pads, copper pipeline to caliper, found one was partially closed when originally crimped.

Got new flexi hoses ordered ANR 1765, not sure what the difference is between ANR 1765 & ANR 1765 G

Once running and brakes used a few times everything is perfect again.

I've been trying various things like breeding the brakes in the correct sequence as I initially thought it was air in the system.

If I keep foot on the pedal when it occurs the pedal is solid and does not slowly drop to the floor like normally, pedal does not feel like normal when you pump the brakes to a solid point, this is different like a mechanical solid stop.

Looking for people's thoughts on this - any advice greatly appreciated

I know i asked this ages ago but never got any response so here goes again.

I unlock my Disco 2 TD5 with the key fob and get in and start it as one would normally do.  It normally starts as it should and there is no problem. However very rarely (couple of times a year) it will start normally and then die immediately.  No amount of key turning will start the vehicle.  It just turns over but will not fire.  However if i get out of the car and relock it with the fob and then unlock it again it normally starts.  I do have to get out and bang the door and then reopen it for this to work. It will not work if i just lock and unlock the car from the drivers seat.

I am asking as this has happened twice in the last week and i would like to know how to avoid it in case it get worse or will not start at all

All suggestions welcome 

Is this true or was I misinformed?

I mean this kind of thing:

http://www.landyonline.co.za/workshop/airhelpersprings.html

Cheers!!!

Sometimes the left indicator would flash very fast, as if an LED was fitted. Front, back and side would have this tendency. I say "sometimes" as there are times when the indicators operate at the normal frequency.

I suspect the indicator unit. Where is this situated ? Is it a generic unit, or LR specific ?

When I select reverse, the reverse lights will come on briefly and then switch off. Any ideas ? Switch faulty ?

Thanks in advance

I have just replaced the clutch on my D3, pig of a job on the floor from underneath, don't try it kids.

Anyway, she's back on the road and all is nearly well. The damn thing won't recognise Neutral meaning I can't engage low range, bit of an issue as I use it a lot. I have tried the XYZ reset proceedure but withut low range or anything approaching a straight enough road it hasn't worked. The dash recognising all forward and reverse gears. Any idea how it recognises Neutral? Have I missed a wire or damaged one in the process maybe?Cheers

Will

Turbo has axle play and oil in it and need replacing of the cartridge or a complete new turbo.

Who has experience with either please ?

Thank you.