What would you recommend please? I’d rather not run on a laptop but I will do so if required.

Thanks 

I think the problem is blow fuses and have found the rear light fuse blown and replaced it. What fuses control all the circuits on the towing electrics including the caravan socket. I suspect I blew the fuses after a temporary wire shorted out on my trailer.

Undergoing a bit of rangie surgery at the moment to breath some new life into my truck. I want to fit anti rolls bars in this rebuild and currently on the rear so my question is has anyone fitted the X-Deflex kit when there are twin rear shocks as shown in the pics? I have a feeling the right hand arm will foul the rearmost shock.

I need to weld on the chassis bracket for this install whichever way I go. I have looked for a position of this bracket and have found info that from the centre of the bumpstop hole to the face of the bracket is 250mm. Can anyone confirm this is correct please. 

Having had a scout about on the net and YouTube I see there is very little room on the 110 spring seat  and the link, although I have the standard RRC spring seats so should not be a problem. Although I am thinking about moving the bracket back a bit more just in case to improve clearance anyway.

Let me have your thought guys

Cheers

Baden

I would like to change my headlights for something a bit better on my 1992 classic.  I have seen various LED  kits on fleaybay etc.  Just wondered if anyone has any experience with these . Or could done one suggest anything as an upgrade to thd factory fitted ones. Thanks in advance .

A few weeks ago a good mate called me and asked for a tow. His clutch pedal had dropped to the floor, while he was on his way to the Workshop to help me out with an Esprit V8. Not too far away, so we soon had his Range Rover (1986 VM) up on the lift. He had a spare master and slave, so should have been a quick and easy job. Not so much. 😞 The slave was a bit wet, so we started with that. The spare turned out to be the wrong type, but we managed to use the internals to rebuild the old one. We couldn't get it to bleed though. OK, so we'll change the master as well. We used the reverse bleeding method, filling the reservoir from below with a big syringe to the bleed nipple on the slave. After much faffin' he had just enough clutch action to get us to the pub. But selecting reverse always needed 2 or 3 presses of the pedal and even then not completely without some grinding. Right, I'll order a new, correct slave and a new master as well, for good measure. Both AP. Installed those the week after, but this time bleeding was even harder. We could only get some resistance right at the end of travel, not nearly enough to disengage the clutch. We looked at the fork etc, but could see nothing obviously wrong. We tried bleeding from below, from the top, with the slave out of the bellhousing and the bleed nipple point upward, anything we could think of. We tested the master on the bench and seemed to get a normal amount of fluid being pumped (without load). Not so much when installed, so I ordered a new flexible hose, thinking that was billowing out under pressure. We also removed the damper from the circuit, just to rule that out. When that didn't make any difference, I ordered yet another master, thinking maybe we had damaged the previous ones by pushing dirty fluid up when reverse bleeding. But nothing seems to make a difference, we can barely get any resistance on the pedal. We even took the slave out of the bellhousing and put a bracket across the piston to make sure there was no movement and we'd see any fluid leaking out.

We're at our wits end, this should be a simple enough task, we've bled plenty of clutches and brakes, but never encountered one this stubborn. It feels like we're missing something obvious, so I'm hoping someone on here will have some ideas on how to proceed. I've already suggested just throwing in an autobox, we probably could have done that in the time spend bleeding!

Filip (rant over...)

Has anyone had experience of Kingsley Cars, Twenty-Ten Engineering or Bishop’s Heritage?  Which would you recommend and why?

I've hooked up the IID to the infotainment unit, I'm running these live values. Pity that you can only display 8 parameters.

Bought directly from Canavie via a salesperson:

Andy (Whatsapp +8615013724850)

Shenzhen Canavie Technology Co., Ltd.

Tel: +86-755-82665022

E-mail: canaviesales@gmail.com

Site: http://www.canaviet.com

First, I am a newby here, so please forgive me for making ignorant comments or remarks….

I own a RRC from 1986 (LHD), with a problem. The oil is smelling of gasoline and the level is way too high, suggesting gasoline got into the oil. Also, the oil pressure warning light came on. Any suggestions where to start diagnosing the issue and in what order. 

Are there any TDC indicators outside the timing cover?

I am struggling to get the timing pin in the correct hole, I thought I had it yesterday, but I seem to be finding 'slots' today, nothing that seems right, any tips?

The figure quoted for the 'rise' is around .90 mm, I have total movement of over 2mm, does that sound right?

Any tips or good leads from Youtube or elsewhere appreciated, thanks

Had this beauty a few months now and really enjoying it. My problem is the lug type locking wheel nut key has been lost so I bought a removal socket from ebay, the one that comes with a loose tooth to fit in one of the recesses.

I have a new set of locking wheel nuts to go on once the others are removed and this is the problem, the universal socket won't go over the locking nut on the car but will fit over my new set! So I measured the existing fitted lock nut with a vernier and it is 30mm outside diameter, the removal socket is also 30mm inside diameter so an interference fit. The new locking nuts are 28mm outside diameter.

I did try tapping it on with a small hammer but it's not going to go. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a slightly larger removal socket to fit over the 30mm. Failing some knowledge from you guys I may have to attack the removal socket bore with a die grinder and open it up until it fits. What a pain, another 5 minute job fail!!

Thanks in advance

Baden

The other one is an Autobiography model and is immaculate considering its age. Besides the major engine problem the only thing I can find wrong with the vehicle is a split in the drivers seat squab (repairable).  This one does not drive and from what I have investigated so far I believe it is a major engine problem,  the previous owner ran it out of oil. It will run (lot of heavy noises coming from engine) but, it does not drive as it stalls as soon as you try to accelerate.

What I want to know !   Is it possible to get the heads off the first one without lifting the body off.  I don't mind taking my time and removing all sorts of pieces to be able to do this.  

I am presuming with the Autobiography I will have to lift the body off the chassis to get the engine out ?  I have tried to source a workshop manual for this model with no luck, so I would like a link to what is available !

Hi all. I have a little history with Defenders (that started with 2.5l and then td5 90s, to what was supposed to be my final Landy, a lovely TDCI 110, but which was sadly written off after a Mazda driver decided to use it as target practice) but made the move to Range’s a few years ago and currently own a 2012 Westminster.
 

My wife and I took my son, plus my Mom and Dad (and two Dalmatians) to Wales for a few days earlier this year and have just booked again for early September. We tend to travel light but with 5 people and two dogs it was a bit tight so we’d like to get a decent roof rack and roof box this time around.
 

We’ve never used one before and would really appreciate any recommendations on what (or what not) to buy.

He only wants what the scrap man will give him for it. Is it worth having to break for parts? 
it’s the newer shape with the good lights so they must be worth a bit and nice wheels and tyres. 
I have the space and would have time over the winter to pull it apart and weight the rest in. 
But are diffs and gearboxes etc desirable like in the disco 2 and defenders? 
beige leather interior in reasonable condition

Shall I just let the scrap man have the hassle or could I make a bit from it? 
 

Thanks 

Hi.
I need to replace the rear shocks on a 2016 Range Rover. Anyone have any experience of this task? I’ve seen conflicting reports and tutorials some saying you must remove the rear seats but others suggesting you can access the top bolts without seat removal. 

Any advice on the process would much appreciated  

Thanks

It seems i will have to bite the bullet and buy the kit.

I know the nanocom evo is a nice bit of kit but a little pricey for use on your own vehicle.

So that leaves me with the cheaper EAS Unlock V4.0 from rswsolutions.com

It seems as though it has the same functions etc as the nanocom unit but is anybody using it to give a little feedback and thoughts on the software etc ?.

Bought a donor car the same colour and swapped the doors across. Got the keys repaired and coded in and now have the car running quite well. Booked in for MOT on Monday and to clear the dpf which is shown blocked. 

The central locking on the replaced doors doesn't work do the locks need coded or do I just need to swap the door actuators from the original doors?

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/aj133-5-0-timing-chain-tensioner-system.368509/

I’m ok with the price but would like to know they are good quality

I’m a bit picky about my wipers

I could just buy cheaper otherwise 

Thank you again. 

Picked the car up Friday and drove from Stafford to Ayr without issue.

Saturday morning pulled out of my driveway and put the foot down, the car started to pull then glitched and crashed the engine and up came F on the dashboard. Pulled over switched off and then turned back on and it drove faultlessly for the next two hours before I got back home again. Saturday evening pulled out of the drive and it crashed as before. Switched off and back on and again it was fine. Did the same this morning. I suspect a sensor has failed and having three other TDV8 engines two of which are Sports I am bound to have the parts in duplicate if not triplicate.

Can anyone suggest a sensor that would crash under these circumstances?