For reasons involving too many recent threads on here, I keep thinking about Disco 4 and RRS, if only to try one for a year. 

I don't want to spend more than £5k, so we're playing in the dirty end of the pool: 3.0 TDV6, 100k+ miles, 2010 or so, £750 road tax. 

I prefer a D4 for the more practical shaped boot, but the RRS does look better to me. 

I don't think I need to ask if this is wise or not, the question is which is least unwise and what should I absolutely rule in/out in terms of spec, service history, essential work being done, etc? 

Five minutes research would no doubt reveal most of this, so baseless opinion is also welcomed/encouraged. 

As a few will know last year a group of us relocated an Avro Shackleton.. The core of that group are now going after the Shackleton's Grand Mother, a Lancaster, specifically NF920 "Easy Elsie". Elsie is currently in Sweden and for 20 years or so, the red tape has been worked on to get the aircraft back to the UK and the groundwork is all but done. However we have just hit a big problem in that the land owner is now offering to scrap the wreck because in there eyes it's not very important. To try and stop this happening could any and all that read this simply send us a supportive email saying Elsie is Historically important and should be returned to the UK.  The crew all survived the crash so she isn't a war grave.

biggles2000_99@yahoo.com is the email address.

Why is Elsie important? Well simply put she is the only Lancaster left anywhere that actually served on 617 "Dambusters" Squadron during the 2nd small disagreement, she also still has to our knowledge the only set of bombing equipment used to carry the Tall Boy Bomb, another of Barns Wallis's creations. 

Thanks for reading this far. 👍

I have a 2.5 NA in my series 3 which causes me some headache as it excessively smokes. Already advanced the pump to its max. However it still sounds soft „wabbly“ but doesn’t have that distinct clatter.

Some other info, consumed nearly no oil or water on a 450 mile roadtrip a month ago. Has decent power.

Any help would be greatly appreciated:)

Is it the timing belt that jumped a tooth?Reddit Post with video

For the pto I was more thinking of an air operated actuator as you have sometimes have to play a bit with the clutch before the teeth of the pump grip in the teeth of the lt230. I think an electric actuator would just push and push.

For the difflock you could use both versions I guess

Personal preferences go to air operated actuators as probably better waterproof and anyway I have already air in the 110

What do you think?

I'm after a connector for another car project I'm working on - from what I can tell it's a Tyco/AMP MULTILOCK 070 Female Connector Housing

https://int.rsdelivers.com/product/te-connectivity/174935-1/te-connectivity-multilock-070-female-connector-35/1641552

(not my picture)

I can find them available from RS, Mouser etc, but a couple of quid connector ends up being closer to £20 by the time shipping is added, which is a but much when I am taking a punt on it actually being the right one..

Cheapest I've found is on ebay, shipped from Italy for £13

Any suggestions as to where I can get one as a one off, with pins without crazy shipping costs? Aliexpress etc don't seem to have them listed from...

Cheers!

Jon

Or it could just be AI.....hope not

Regards Stephen

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...ME:B:SS:GB:1123

Dear God (Hoping its nobody I know, or who knows me )

Nige

I don't want to have to undo all the engine plumbing to pull that forward instead, and I can't get an engine crane alongside it in the garage to go in through the door - I can only just get me alongside it in the garage.

These little wheely jacks look ideal but aren't quite high enough, I'm thinking that building a cradle that bolts to the top might solve that:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317385797185

There's very tall jacks/stands for working under 4-post / 2-post lifts but those start at about 4ft tall and go up, so no good.

Next best option I've seen so far is a motorbike lift like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376494292002

But those are a bigger lump to store.

3rd best option is one of those scissor-lift table trolleys which are much more useful around the place, but even the terrifyingly cheap ones are knocking £300 and it's a big old thing to then have to store.

Any suggestions I haven't thought of?

Now, whoever did this logo, have you still got the full size version as I cannot find it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 🙏

Nige

Some stuff pops up thats got real potential and is quite nice.

Hell, maybe a post here will spur a member to bid n buy it

Not a ££££££££££S bling 4x4s, just billy bargain 4x4s that are not sheds and have potential

Like :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300906080141&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123

PROPER 2 dr RR Bobtail .......Not a F pick up "Bobtail"

I love the above, has real potential, like my old 5.7 Chev bobtail which Iloved

Must step away from the bidding keyboard .........

Hi just fitted a new cam and lifters to a 4.6 V8. The engine has now run for about 1 hour and the lifters are still very noisy.

So I took off the rocker covers to had a look and noticed that the lifters seem to leak down very quickly over a few seconds. The attached video shows me manually turning the engine taking a valve from closed to open and the lifter leaking down. All lifter behave the same.

 This surprised me as i would normally expect the lifters to hold up for several hours otherwise the engines would clatter every time they are started which normally only happens if  left for several days. 

Rang Turners who supplied the cam and lifters and they recommended running it longer to see if it "settles down".

I will do this but thought first I would double check the lifter preload in case I messed it up but all are correct in the 0.04" to 0.06" range.

While doing this I emptied the lifters of oil to check the preload and it was very easy to push the oil out using a wood dowel pressing on the lifter cap by hand. in contrast the old lifters needed to be put in a vice to push the oil out which is what I have experienced before. So it seems like a radical difference between the old and new lifters.

So I put one of the old lifters in the engine and bolted the rockers on with the cam at it's peak and after several hours the lifter had not leaked down.

It seems to me that the new lifters have a far to high leak down rate, but would like peoples thoughts before getting back in touch with Turners.

Thanks

Mike

I think it's dying, it's barely able to start the engine, despite a decent battery (checked with an old school battery drain tester).

Knowing that the landrover branded original lasted a very long time, I'd like to get another landrover starter, but am struggling to find one. Who makes good starters these days? 

Or am I better off rebuilding?

bu

with technology moving so fast is there a budget DIY emissions tester for testing not type levels for CO / HC out there that won’t break the bank ??

I have bought some Evapo-rust too but that seems to be mainly for parts you can take off & dip in it, not so good for a bit of chassis or a panel.

It would be great if people can post direct experiences and maybe pictures of results / how stuff's held up long term too.

I'm tempted to stick with the Dinitrol as I know it works but I can't shake the feeling I'm potentially paying £20 for £5 worth of stuff in a can.

A quick search shows lots of wheel tracking stuff, including one in the tech-archive, but I don’t know if it’s bad form to post a question on the end of that…?

I have recently replaced the axle casing (1994 110SW - 300Tdi). New parts where needed, otherwise bolting back on stuff which had been renewed fairly recently anyway.

Try as I might, I can’t get rid of a distinct pull to the left. In the last few years this car has done 1000s of motorway miles from Nth of Scotland down to the south coast and in Europe. All of this with comfortable ‘straight ahead’ steering, and the ability to steer with my pinkie finger if I wanted to, so that’s what I’m used to and what I’m aiming for.

In the last two days I’ve used the various techniques: strapping two straight edges to the tyres; an adjustable pole between the wheel rims; the tight line round all 4 corners; and today, wheels off and some straight edges directly onto the hubs. I’ve gone from setting the wheels parallel, then changing to ‘factory’ using 2mm toe-out (or as near as dammit). I am as certain as I can possibly be that the tracking is correct, but I still have this pull to the left. Steering box is centred in straight ahead position. There is no push or pull from the steering damper. Just before I give in and take it to the professionals, what could I be missing? There’s always a potential for the ‘idiot factor’…

What’s actually new? Half shafts, CVs and diff, gaskets, seals and some fixings. New bushes on radius arms and panhard rod. Anti-roll bar drop links.

(It is a refurbed axle casing, but I bought it complete and (though I haven’t actually measured it) I’m pretty confident it’s straight enough. Everything went together with no drama.)

Any sage advice very gratefully received as always.

Regards, Mick.

What threads are on each end and what is the easiest way to go about it?

Scary grown up stuff

Apart from the fact that the engine + gearbox + transferbox were fitted 35 mm. too far backwards (no, you don't want to know how we go the engine out eventually) we found an "interesting flexplate"

Obviously, they ran into problems when fitting this torque converter and weld some box section onto the TC and 4 "fingers" did the rest.

Wonder why this box failed....

What do you think ?