Limp clutch after master and slave switch 1982 SIII

[DLR1982]

Hello.

Have had my Series 3 (1982) for a decade. I ran into something I don't love

Was out driving and the clutch went limp, no preassure whatsoever, I refilled the reservoir and pumped a few times (still fluid in there so no air) and it worked. Started bugging me and fluid lever went down when driving longer trips (my daily driver for years now) oh I also dropped a 200tdi in this S3.

Something was still up, so I got a new slave and master and fitted it topped up reservoir and bled the system. Still a limp clutch.

I'm starting to think it's the pushplate in the transmission that's worn (a major pain in the ass) so before I drop the transmission I would love some feedback from you guys and of course girls (and everything in between).

I've never messed with transmissions before and I'm not sure I can do it to be honest. Redone breaks, well most things on the truck I've gone over but yeah needs some more confidence to be honest.

Your input is greatly appreciated

Best

David

[Stellaghost]

Is your master cylinder push rod set up correctly, another thing to check is the flexi pipe in the clutch line, they degrade with age, it may be swelling when used, also they can delaminate internally blocking or restricting the flow of clutch fluid

Regards Stephen

[DLR1982]

Hey Stephen,

I didn't actually change to piping between, but flushed it with air before filling and bleeding. It was in good shape. The pushrod I set to where to old one was at, engages good but just no preassure. After the switch (slave and master) it holds fluid.

I'm thinking it may be the pushplate on the transmission noticed it being a small wiggle when I got the new slave back on.

Thanks for your input.

Best

David

 

[Stellaghost]

Does it still have a series gearbox, clutch arms are not usually an issue on them

Regards Stephen

[Stellaghost]

Is the new slave cylinder fitted with the bleed nipple to the top, if its on the bottom you will struggle to bleed it

Are you still losing fluid

Try bleeding again they can be difficult to get all the air out

Regards Stephen

[Snagger]

Before you go for the big job of replacing the clutch plate and cover, try replacing the flexible hose.  You can buy a stainless braided Goodridge hose that does a great job of making sure all the pressure goes to the right place and it should be more resilient and longer lived than a standard hose.

[steve b]

It is a bleeding issue not something amiss with the release arm or bearing. 

I had exactly this problem a couple of years ago on a 109 S3 and made this quick tool to hold the piston in all the way

Remove the slave from the housing keeping the pipe properly connected, the middle threaded rod holds the piston fully in and the outer ones secure it to the cylinder via the two mount holes. 

position it so the bleed nipple is uppermost and bleed it . Re-fit it and enjoy.

Steve

[Peaklander]

1 hour ago, steve b said:

made this quick tool to hold the piston in all the way

That's a great idea. I have an associated problem on my hobby Honda CRV. It's had continuous low bite point, so I changed the master, refurbed the slave and had to bleed in reverse. It didn't change the bite point, even with pushrod adjustment correct. The slave onto fork operation is external on a CRV so I can see it and it begins to move at the top of the down pedal stroke but isn't fully disengaged until nearly at the bottom.

As I had some time, I changed the dmf and clutch on the drive. That was interesting in itself and it's a self adjusting clutch and the old one was adjusted to the limit, with the friction plate down as it would be after 160K miles.

I thought that would be the reason for the low bite but reading a little bit suggests that a SAC holds the degree of effort to operate, through the life of the friction plate, rather than maintain a position of engagement.

Now I have read this useful tip from @steve b I wonder whether I still have air in the system, even though I seem to get movement at the slave. I have felt the flexi-hose as SWIMBO operated the pedal and can't feel any expansion but maybe even that isn't conclusive proof that the hose is OK. Trouble is I can't find a replacement. I will perhaps try with a similar tool to hold the slave pushrod. Thanks.

[steve b]

The funny thing about making that tool was that earlier the same year I'd done clutch master and slave on an 88 S3 and 2x 200 Tdi Defenders that went on and bled instantly using the Sealey pressure bleeder in the same way when the tool got made. Just another quirk of Land Rover life....

 

Steve

[Snagger]

You should get a clean bleed of the failed if you park with the nose of the car upslope, so the air bubbles collect at the slave’s nipple end, not piston end.  Putting the front wheels up on ramps or blocks will achieve that and give you more space to work too, but please chock the rear wheels too.