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Posted

Hi All,

My brake lines feel a little exposed and are only held on by cable ties.

Any suggestions as to improve this?

Cheers,

Mike

post-25707-0-34811000-1353521570_thumb.jpg

Posted

Other than making some steel covers or running them down a tube there isn't much that can be done. And even then stuff wraps around the axel and gives them a sharp bend at the wheel end :(

Best process is regular inspection and carry a spare. But they very often still work when flattened !

Posted

Cable ties do the job just fine. I've not had a problem using them on either my Defender or my rally cars.

As long as they're behind the casing they should be fine.

Posted

Do they not have to be held on with proper p clips and not cable ties? I thought it was an MOT failure to have brake pipes that are "free to vibrate"? Or did I just have an overly picky MOT tester in the past?

Mike

Posted

I've had brake lines failed for retention using cable ties. I've also had them pass without issue. Same tester. Make of that what you will ;)

But the proper way, or rather the way they come out of the factory, is to use the clips as Mike says above. See here:

post-10578-0-24019300-1353538780_thumb.jpg

Clips highlighted. The brake pipe should not touch the axle casing at any point, it should be supported solely by the clips, the T-piece above the diff, and the calipers themselves.

It's worth noting that plastic clips as per the above photo were used on later models. Earlier vehicles used a metal P-clip (that held it very securely but seized easily), but the same principle applied in terms of support. Think the changeover was around 300Tdi time, the above axle is 300Tdi and the axle that was on before it (200Tdi) had metal P-clips instead.

Posted

My MOT inspector told me that cable ties direct to the casing ought to be a fail but if you were to slit a rubber hose and wrap around the pipe before putting the tie around it, it will pass. As long as the pipe is supported and theres no risk of abrasion there's no reason it shouldnt pass

Posted

My MOT inspector told me that cable ties direct to the casing ought to be a fail but if you were to slit a rubber hose and wrap around the pipe before putting the tie around it, it will pass. As long as the pipe is supported and theres no risk of abrasion there's no reason it shouldnt pass

It just so happens I bought Daisy of an MOT inspector, replaced the brake line; so go figure!

It was more a "I don't like it" than a MOT concern.

Can anyone suggest any p-clips?

Posted

When I reconditioned my axle I welded tabs on to the axle and bolted small rubber lined P clips to them. I also welded some bar at the ends to support the upsweep of the pipe to the caliper and used cable ties to fasten the pipe on there after first wrapping the pipe in plastic spiral cable cover.

Posted

welded tags, stainless nutsert and p-clips here.

they will pass without comment and will still need drilling out and replacing in the future....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Series have a small plastic clip which has a slot in the back for a cable tie to hold the clip to the axle tube

Is it me or do series have lots of good little ideas like this, that defenders just lack?

Posted

Series have a small plastic clip which has a slot in the back for a cable tie to hold the clip to the axle tube

These?

NRC9246-PIPE-CLIP.jpg

My Defender had those on it's original rear axle, though they we're used for the axle breather not the brake pipe. That was attached via metal p-clips as above.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
These?

NRC9246-PIPE-CLIP.jpg

My Defender had those on it's original rear axle, though they we're used for the axle breather not the brake pipe. That was attached via metal p-clips as above.

Where can you find these mate??

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